Lonely Planet Istanbul Gaze in awe at the soaring dome of Aya SofyaSubmit to the mitten in a historic "hammam"Sip a cocktail and watch the sunset from a rooftop barEat like a Turk in a traditional "mayhane" In This Guide: One expert author, 500 hours of research, over 350 places recommendedSpecial color section on the city's architecture and full coverage of Bosphorus ferry tripsLocals give the inside story on the city's culture, fashion and contemporary art